The anatomy of a Rolex

Movements

Parachrom hairspring

Parachrom hairspring

Why blue?

This is what our Parachrom hairspring looks like. It is an essential guardian of the watch’s chronometric precision. Unveiled in 2005, entirely designed and manufactured in house, it nears the apex of what metal alloy hairsprings can offer. The scale of the image might throw you off, though.

Its edge is thinner than a single strand of hair and its weight is merely a fraction of a pearl’s. Moreover, once coiled, its diameter does not exceed a few millimeters. It is shielded from outside aggressions by a case so hermetic it was aptly named “Oyster”. Needless to say, it is a rare occurrence for any eyes to be laid on the Parachrom. So why would we be concerned by its colour? Because this hue of blue is true to our tradition of watchmaking excellence. It is the exact colour taken by our unique alloy of niobium, zirconium and oxygen when it has been anodized to stop the process of oxidation. This blue is essential to us, because it symbolizes the long-lasting performances which we hold ourselves to. This hairspring is insensitive to magnetic fields, unwavering in the face of temperature variations, and resistant to shocks as to corrosion. Therefore, each Rolex equipped with a Parachrom hairspring will tick at a most regular and perpetual beat.

Parachrom hairspring
Syloxi hairspring

Syloxi hairspring

The minute giant

This is our Syloxi hairspring. Crafted from silicon and introduced in 2014 on calibre 2236, it is entirely produced inside our Manufacture.

The unique geometry of this oscillator’s component guarantees the chronometric precision of the watch. Although it was designed for our small and medium-diameter models and our thinnest watches, its size does not diminish its qualities. Elastic and rigid, light and resistant: on a micron scale, the Syloxi hairspring has all the makings of a giant.

Syloxi hairspring
Chronergy escapement

Chronergy

Nothing escapes us

This is our Chronergy escapement, introduced in 2015. This mechanism transmits energy with unrelenting precision to regulate the heartbeat of the watch. Its wheel and anchor have been redesigned to optimize the system’s efficiency.

The overarching principle is simple: an anchor with two pallets frees the rotation of a dented wheel, in a minutely timed dance. “Tick”, the first pallet stops the wheel. “Tock”, it releases it and leaves the second pallet to halt its rotation. And so on. This happens eight times per second without ever skipping a single beat. That makes 28,800 rounds per hour, amounting to 14,400 “ticks” and as many “tocks”. A metronomic and perpetual cadence that sets every cog and wheel in motion. Which, in turn, brings the watch to life. Yet further proof that, when it comes to mastering time, nothing escapes us.

Chronergy escapement
Paraflex

Paraflex

Shocking!

This is the Paraflex, our shock absorber introduced in 2005. It is an absolutely crucial element in the protection of our horological movements. One which we designed and manufactured solely ourselves. Its specific purpose is to neutralize any and all effects brought about by the knocks and bumps of everyday life.

One may wonder how such a minuscule shield, no bigger than a grain of rice, could achieve such a feat? It is through the interaction of two separate properties which, in a never-ending dance, offset the consequences of all shocks at all times. The Paraflex moves one way, then the other, all within a fraction of a second. On the one hand, it bends at each impact to disperse the energy, then returns to its original shape. On the other, it displaces itself so as to preserve the functionality of the balance wheel and escapement anchor. Thus engaging the guarantee of the chronometric performance of the calibre in all circumstances. It is through this unique ballet of deformation and displacement that the Paraflex preserves the watch’s movement with its own.

Paraflex
Perpetual rotor

Perpetual rotor

Always on

This is the Perpetual rotor, Rolex’s automatic winding mechanism that enables the watch to be constantly wound by the wrist’s movement. Invented by the brand and patented, it was introduced in 1931. Since its inception, we have ceaselessly improved this groundbreaking innovation, which has brought the world of watchmaking into another dimension.

In a constant state of unstable equilibrium, the half-moon oscillating weight is beholden to Earth’s gravity. It cannot escape it. Therefore, it rotates with the wearer’s every gesture, and sways in one direction or the other. The energy generated by these oscillations is transferred to the mainspring, which is continually wound, through an innovative system comprised of reversing wheels and a gear train. Thus stored, the energy is released simultaneously to activate the movement, ultimately moving the hands of the watch. Regularly. Precisely. For though we all seek balance, it is imbalance that drives us to move, perpetually.

Perpetual Rotor
Barrel

Barrel

Catch and release

This is a high-performance barrel. This component stores then distributes the necessary energy to the calibre in optimal fashion.

Entirely conceived, made and assembled in-house, it has been constantly improved, down to the finesse of its walls and surfaces. When active, its mainspring coils around the arbor and converts the Perpetual rotor’s rotations to a power reserve of up to 72 hours. This energy is then distilled with regularity and stability, no matter how active – or inactive – the wearer. Channeling tension is indeed the best way to master the art of release.

Barrel
Microstella nuts

Microstella

When the stars align

These are our Microstella nuts. These patented elements can be screwed or unscrewed to adjust the movement’s precision.

This poising process is carried out using an exclusive key, without having to decase the calibre: a practical, time-saving factor for the watchmaker. These invaluable guardians of the balance wheel’s oscillation speed were originally screw-shaped when they were first developed in 1957. They were perfected in 1983 and acquired their characteristic nut shape. Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf considered these revolutionary components a distinctive signature for the brand. Their star shape is a reminder that one must aim high and far to achieve precision.

Microstella Nuts
Day Display

Day display

Never abbreviated

This is our signature day-disc display, found exclusively on the Day-Date. Unveiled in 1956, it has been available in 26 languages since 1973.

Within its curvature, the new day appears at midnight, in perfect synchronicity with the date disc. We chose to ensure each of the seven days appear in full. Unabbreviated. It might seem like a small detail, but it speaks to our unrelenting will to do things completely, without ever cutting corners. After all, great accomplishments and grand designs are always written in full.

Day Display
Chronograph Function

Chronograph Function

Ready. Set. Go.

This is our chronograph. It enables time intervals to be measured with absolute reliability. Its starts and stops are instantaneous. START. Perfectly accurate. STOP. Without a twitch. RESET.

These reliable performances result from the efficient system embedded in the calibre 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona. Its vertical clutch makes it possible to start and stop the time measurement function while sparing the chronometric precision over time. No matter how many times it is activated. Such is the prowess of our chronograph, leading the race in its field. START.

Chronograph Function
Saros calendar

Saros

Why complicate matters?

31, 28, 31, 30, 31, 30, 31, 31, 30, 31, 30, 31: the annual sequence of months is more complicated than it appears. In horological terms, its inconsistency must be addressed when designing an annual calendar such as our Saros, first introduced in 2012 with the Sky-Dweller.

Like all annual calendars, it autonomously differentiates months with 30 and 31 days and only requires to be set once every year, when February turns to March. Developing such a complication usually requires beautifully intricate mechanisms, with countless levers, cams and springs. But it is a different type of beauty that has always held our favour: that of simplicity. No matter how difficult it may be to reach. Here, it took us many years of development to finally make our annual calendar, using only four gear wheels and two gear ratios. Nothing more. Its conception is so efficient, the movement’s performance and durability are in no way affected. To the contrary, it allows for the energy dispensed by the feature to be perfectly managed. Perhaps that is why it is considered a horological prowess. The Saros is a most ingenious watchmaking complication.

Saros Calendar

Rolex Watchmaking Know-how

Excellence in the making