Submariner
From tool watch to iconThe Oyster Perpetual Submariner plays a central role in the quest for waterproofness that Rolex has pursued for over a century. An innovative tool watch turned enduring icon, it has established itself far beyond the world of underwater exploration. Always in step with the times, it has not only accompanied the rise of modern diving, but has also appeared in numerous films that have left their mark on the history of cinema.
The Submarine, a pioneering model
Rolex presented the Submarine, a first attempt at a waterproof wristwatch. This watch was attached on a hinge inside a second, outer case, whose bezel and crystal screwed down to make the outer case watertight. As a result, accessing the crown – to wind the watch or set the time – meant opening the outer case.
1922
A revolutionary case
Patented in 1926, the Oyster case was completely hermetically sealed. A system of screwing down the bezel, case back and winding crown against the middle case ensured that the inside of the wristwatch was protected from harmful elements on the outside. Hans Wilsdorf named the case 'Oyster'. It would later give its name to a watch because, as the founder of Rolex explained, “like an oyster, it can remain an unlimited time underwater without detriment to its parts.”
1926
The birth of a tool watch
At its launch, the Submariner was waterproof to 100 metres (330 feet). Its Oyster case was equipped with a crown fitted with the Twinlock system: a screw-down winding crown featuring two sealed zones. It could and can still be recognized on the front by the raised marking or pair of markings under the brand’s emblem. Developed by Rolex, the watch benefited from feedback provided by the diver Dimitri Rebikoff. In particular, the engineer and underwater photographer suggested replacing the red triangular marker on the bezel with a white triangle to improve legibility. After 132 dives at depths ranging from 12 to 60 metres (40 to 195 feet), his verdict was clear: the Submariner had all the necessary features to assist divers underwater.
Diving: a social phenomenon
From the early 1950s, diving experienced an unprecedented boom thanks to the advent of scuba equipment. The sport became a real social phenomenon, marked by the opening of the first diving schools. It was a movement the Submariner accompanied.
1953
Protective architecture
The Submariner was one of the first Rolex watches to feature a case with crown guards designed to protect the winding crown. Stamped into the case, these lateral shields reduced the impact of any shocks on the crown. Over time, the crown guard would become standard on most of the brand’s Professional watches.
1959
Screen time
The Submariner appeared on Sean Connery’s wrist in the first James Bond film, marking the beginning of a cinematic legacy that would help elevate it to icon status. Steve McQueen wore a Submariner when he played Michael O’Halloran, the heroic chief of the San Francisco Fire Department, in The Towering Inferno (1974). So did Robert Redford when he appeared in All the President’s Men (1976) as one of the journalists who exposed the Watergate scandal.
1962
The birth of a range
Rolex introduced a Submariner crafted in yellow gold, as well as a version featuring a date window at 3 o’clock: the Submariner Date. By becoming a range within the Oyster Perpetual collection, the Submariner reached a new milestone: this Professional watch had become an everyday essential, a symbol of performance and achievement.
1969
Reinforced waterproofness
Rolex presented a major technical innovation: the Triplock winding crown, featuring three sealed zones. Recognizable by its three raised symbols under the Rolex emblem, this innovation would gradually be incorporated into the entire Submariner range from the early 1970s.
1970
A challenge in icy waters
On 18 April 1974, Dr Joe MacInnis’s team achieved the unthinkable: diving beneath the North Polar ice cap in an extreme environment where every movement counts. Some of the expedition’s divers were wearing Submariner watches.
1974
An on-screen legend
Directed by James Cameron, the film Titanic became a global phenomenon, winning 11 Oscars the following year. During filming, Cameron wore his Submariner. On screen, the character of Brock Lovett, played by Bill Paxton, wears a yellow gold Submariner Date – a tool watch perfectly suited to his role as a diver, cameraman and wreck hunter.
I was wearing a Submariner the first time I saw the Titanic for real through the porthole of a submersible, and I was wearing the same watch in my black tie when I went up on the stage to get the Oscar for directing Titanic.
1997
A landmark colour
To mark its 50th anniversary, the Submariner Date was given a brand-new bezel. Reference 16610LV, crafted from 904L steel and featuring a black lacquer dial, boasted a green anodized aluminium bezel insert: a first in the history of the range.
2003
New bezels for diving
Introduced in 2005 on the GMT-Master II, the Cerachrom bezel insert appeared on the Submariner Date. In green or black depending on the version, this high-tech ceramic component replaced the old insert made from anodized aluminium. The Submariner would be fitted with it two years later.
2010
A sea change
The Submariner range underwent a general redesign, marked by the introduction of a case with slightly revised proportions and a bracelet with sleeker lines. Now with a diameter of 41 mm, it housed calibre 3230 for the Submariner and calibre 3235 for the Submariner Date, both offering enhanced chronometric performance and an extended power reserve. This development was also accompanied by a subtle redesign of the case sides, enhancing both the aesthetic balance and wearing comfort.
2020
The gardener of the oceans
Titouan Bernicot became a Rolex Testimonee. In 2017, at just 18 years old, he founded Coral Gardeners, an international organization based in French Polynesia, dedicated to the protection of coral reefs. Supported by Rolex and its Perpetual Planet Initiative, it has already replanted nearly 200,000 corals.
We’ve been planting trees for thousands of years, but we’ve only been planting corals for a few years. [...] I want the world to realize how important the oceans are and understand that corals are the rainforests of the sea.